I'm apologising now for the headless photos, but it's 7am in the morning, cold, misty and I had a very unattractive sleepy face. Unfortunately this was the only time I could get photos before I fly to Darwin this weekend.
Here is the original inspiration from ButchWax Vintage - a 1950s gathered waist skirt, with over sized collar. The collar is gathered at the bust line, with tassel trim around the edges.
And here's mine.
I'm over the moon with how it turned out! I used the Billie Jean pattern from Bluegingerdoll, and only made a few changes from the original.
- raising the back neck line a bit to make it easier to attach the collar.
- deepening the arm holes (I found them a bit small).
- doing a lower start back zip (similar to how you would do a side zip, but centre back - photo below).
- completely lining the dress in poplin, as the gingham was very soft.
- pleated the lining skirt, instead of gathering.
- drafting an oversize collar with novelty trim!
The pattern is fairly easy to follow, and I sewed the pattern up pretty much as directed (size 16).
I didn't need nearly as much fabric as requested on the pattern - without the collar I think I used 3.5m? It's probably due to me cutting the skirt pieces differently.
A long time was spent making muslins (four in total) before I was happy with the fit. Billie Jean is a princess seamed dress, and I always have issues getting them to fit my large bust/small waist.
I'm glad I did take the time to do several muslins - the fit is fabulous! And for once I didn't have to shorten the bodice, the waist is exactly where it should be.
The collar was pretty painful to draft - I ended up pulling out my pattern drafting books to get a better idea of where I needed to add fullness etc for the bust gather but in the end it was worth it.
I simply draped the finished collar piece over the dress, and adjusted it to suit. The whole thing is securely (and invisibly) sewn on by hand.
If anyone is planning to sew the same dress and would like a quick copy of the collar let me know.
|Pockets! Of course!|
I cannot wait to wear this dress out to a rockabilly gig!
1940s Rayen Shoes - Surry Hills Markets
Maine Lobster Brooch - Williamsburg Flea Markets
Hair Flower - Viva Las Vegas