Saturday, August 13, 2016

FO: Bleeding heart sweater top (Gable review)

A few weeks ago Jennifer from Jennifer Lauren handmade asked if I'd like to try out her latest pattern Gable - a 1950's inspired slash neck top.


I'm really enjoying sewing with knit fabrics at the moment, and love slash neck tops so I immediately said yes. But you know I can't make anything plain, so here's my novelty version!

bleeding heart sweater vintage 1940s loretta young repro modern novelty

My inspiration was taken from Loretta Young's bleeding heart sweater, c. early 1940s.

bleeding heart sweater vintage 1940s loretta young repro modern

But back to Gable.
The pattern itself was a cinch to put together (it only had three pieces) and Jennifer's hints for sewing with stretch knits are really useful. I like her assumption that most people wouldn't be using sergers (although she does talk about them) as they're very uncommon down here in Australia.

I choose a 16 bust, graded out to 18 waist and 20 hip - and it fits perfect. Not too tight, not too loose - Jennifer indicates how much ease is in the pattern which is really helpful when deciding what size to choose.

For sleeves I picked View 3 (without the added long cuff), but ended shortening them to elbow length.



I personally love PDF patterns - you can draw all over them without fear, and save money on postage etc by printing at home. Jennifer's are beautifully drawn, and I found them to be 100% accurate to the notches etc.



The fabric was quality stretch cotton jersey (the good stuff) from Spotlight.

I literally whipped this up in a morning, and spent the same evening sewing the heart appliques to the front.

Would I use this pattern again? Most definitely!
I love quick and easy patterns that turn out exactly how they're shown on the pattern envelope!

bleeding heart sweater vintage 1940s loretta young repro modern gable review

As for the appliques, they are made from acrylic felt and hand-stitched very carefully to the top. I used some gold thread for detail on the arrow as well.

bleeding heart sweater vintage 1940s loretta young repro modern
Excuse the cat hair, it's a constant battle

My tips for sewing felt appliques to stretch fabrics:

  • pin them into place while your garment is on (I pinned mine on while I was wearing it)
  • if you're using wool or viscose felt, make sure you prewash it or it might shrink

I also made the skirt too! It's from a 1950's suit pattern, but I used stretch double knit (ponte de roma) to get a figure hugging fit.


Long Live the Knits!
And thanks Jennifer for letting me try out your latest pattern, I love it!


Outfit:

  • Shoes: Miss L Fire Rosita
  • Bakelite: Various
  • Hat: Viva Las Vegas 2016
  • Glasses: Modcloth

Thursday, August 04, 2016

FO: Joanie Sheath Dress (Butterick 9465, c. 1960)

When I think of Mad Men, my mind always runs to Joan and her dresses from early in the season.


I'm not normally a fan of early sixties style, but I have to admit that stretchy sheath dresses are a great way to keep the vintage vibe going at work. 

Enter in Butterick 9465 - circa 1960s. It came with a bundle of other patterns, and I always kept it aside as the drawing really spoke to me.

butterick 9465 1960s dress

I really love batwing sleeves, and there's just something elegant but casual about this dress.

butterick 9465 1950s mad men 1960s curvy redhead vintage style wiggle sheath dress miss l fire mildred

My version is match from thick and stretchy double knit - forgiving and washable, perfect for work!


Fabric
two metres of double knit jersey (ponte roma from Lincraft).

As well as being easy to sew, it doesnt take a lot of fabric which is a win in my books.

I cheated a bit with this one, and didn't make a muslin first (shock! horror!) as the fabric was fairly forgiving. The only thing I was concerned about was how tight the skirt was so I wrapped the fabric around my hips first, matching the finished size, to make sure it would fit there.


A matching belt from an old belt kit finishes it off!

Mods:
Only one mod, and that was to remove the tucks on the front of the skirt and turn them into darts. I don't like the effect tucks give when you have a bit of a tummy.


Would I make it again? 
Yes, I'm pretty sure I would if I found some more nice double knit somewhere. It's definitely an easy to make dress that looks perfectly retro.

Outfit details
Dress - me made
Shoes - Miss L Fire Mildred
Monogram brooch and gold earrings - Etsy
1950s charm bracelet - Viva Las Vegas

And finally, I have to share what I found in an op-shop (thrift store) on the weekend - a 1950's beach hat!


It folds flat for travelling, and has cute green raffia trim around the edges - bring on summer!

Sunday, July 31, 2016

Curvy Month Pattern 10: Embroidered jacket, Vogue 1949

**oops due to technical difficulties I havent been able to post the last pattern! Sorry!**

Sadly, Curvy Month is down to it's last curvy-sized knitting pattern and I've hopefully saved a beauty for last.

This pattern for a knitted and embroidered jacket come from Vogue Knitting No. 34 (c. 1949), and would look beautiful on so many body shapes.

1950s 1940s knitting pattern swing coat free

The jacket is a wide swing coat design, with cuffed sleeves and classy collar. The red squares are embroidered on afterwards. Like all Vogue knitting patterns there is an emphasis on quality finishing - including facing the edges in wide ribbon.

To fit: 34-36, 37-39 and 40-42 inch busts
Yarn: fingering/light fingering weight
Needles: 3.25mm



I hope you enjoyed Curvy Month for 2016!
xx

Thursday, July 28, 2016

Curvy Month Pattern 9: Bantry skirt and blouse (c. 1935, Minerva Style Book)

There were definitely curvy cuties in the 1930s - and they dressed stylishly too!

1930s free knitting pattern plus size miverva style book 39

This pattern is from Minerva Style Book No.39 - designs for the well-endowed woman of the thirties.
It's hard to tell from the photo but the suit is actually knitted in 'eel grey' with emerald green contrast at the neckline.

The lacey blouse would good on it's own, or knit the whole suit if you're keen!

Finished size: 38" bust, 33" waist, 41" hips
Yarn: Minerva velveen - which is similar to a fingering weight chenille-type yarn
Needles: 2.25mm and 2.75mm (USA needle sizes mentioned in the pattern)





Tuesday, July 26, 2016

Curvy Month Pattern 8: Prelude yoked jumper, c. 1930s-1940s

Patons and Baldwins always added an out-size pattern to their knitting booklets - and it's an adventure trying to find it amongst all their designs.


I really like this simple design (from Style Vol. 3, late 1930s to early 1940s) - the contrast yoke lends itself to a lot of colour variations. Being knit in rib it's both easy to make, and forgiving  for a slightly larger bust size.

To fit: 34 and 38 inch busts
Yarn: Fingering weight
Needles: 3.25mm and 2.75mm




Friday, July 22, 2016

Curvy Month Pattern 7: Pamela textured jumper, c. 1940s

I love textured and lacey knits so much - and this jumper has it in spades!

 
This darling jumper is from Patons No. 256 - published in the later 1940s I would guess. It has an intricate lace pattern - covered in bobbles. I think the plain yoke makes it look really stylish and instructions are also included for knitted shoulder pads.

To fit: 34-35 and 38-39 inch bust
Yarn: fingering weight
Needles: 3.25mm and 2.75mm






Monday, July 18, 2016

Curvy Month Pattern 6: Dolman sweater with openwork, c. 1950s

I adore 1950's dolman sleeve jumpers, they're so comfortable and chic and look brilliant with jeans.

This gorgeous design is from Jaeger No. 3539, and has a really interesting open work design down the front. The entire design is knitted from edge to edge, pretty much in one piece!

jaeger 3539 free knitting pattern 1950s

To fit: 34-36, 36-38 and 38-40 inch busts
Yarn: Fingering weight
Needles: 3.25mm and 2.75mm




 
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